From SciShow.
Some beaches are known for being legendary surf spots. They get their status thanks to bathymetry and the physics of waves. And recently a team of physicists used math to decode the secret formula behind those gnarly waves.
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Sources:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GSQyly6cp4hhZMqCTanekFhj1xDI9lXpMw75ij2hl6s/edit?tab=t.0#heading=h.np7tjhb67s5e
