Behind the Counter at a Local Japanese Oden Restaurant

From Paolo from Tokyo.

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I went behind the counter at Kamekou, a traditional oden shop in Tokyo’s Ginza, to see how one chef has been perfecting the same broth for more than 30 years. Every day, Azuma-san replenishes and simmers his Kanto-style stock, building layers of flavor that fill the shop with a deep, comforting aroma. Azuma-san began his career at Otakō, one of Tokyo’s oldest oden restaurants with over a century of history. When the original owner opened Kameko through the Japanese custom known as Noren Wake, granting permission to carry on the same recipe, Azuma-san joined him. Fifteen years ago, he took over the restaurant to continue his mentor’s legacy. Oden itself dates back more than 800 years to the Edo period. What began as tofu and vegetables topped with miso evolved into ingredients simmered in broth throughout the day for Japan’s busy townspeople. By the Meiji era, fish cakes, konnyaku, and vegetables had been added, shaping the dish known today. At Kameko, 33 ingredients simmer in harmony, each timed perfectly from memory. For Azuma-san, oden is more than food—it’s a craft shaped by rhythm, patience, and decades of experience.

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