Behind the Counter at a Japanese Wagyu Texas BBQ Restaurant

From Paolo from Tokyo.

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Can Japanese BBQ rival the legendary flavors of Texas? I travel from Tokyo to Karuizawa to uncover Smokemanship, a hidden BBQ shop serving wagyu brisket, ribs, and pulled pork like you’ve never seen before by a local Japanese pit master.
Masa-san, originally from Hyogo moved to Karuizawa 13 years ago where a small passion for barbecue slowly grew into an obsession turned into a full-fledged restaurant just one year ago. His mission: to blend authentic Texas techniques with Japan’s prized wagyu beef, known for its rich umami flavor and delicate marbling.
But making Texas BBQ in Japan is no easy task. The climate in Karuizawa brings humid summers and snowy, dry winters, forcing Masa-san to adapt his smoking process. With a smaller smoker and different local conditions, he carefully controls the fire day and night. And while Texas BBQ often relies on oak and mesquite, Japan’s wood is different, so he uses a mix of cherry and apple wood to create a softer, more delicate aroma.
From slow-smoked pork that stays moist over 12 hours, to wagyu brisket cooked for 16 hours with just a simple salt and pepper rub, Masa-san proves that great barbecue is all about patience, precision, and respect for the craft. His brisket, ribs, and pulled pork deliver bold Texas-style flavors while incorporating Japan’s own local character.
Hidden in the mountains of Nagano, this small BBQ shop is raising the bar for what Japanese barbecue can be. With discipline, focus, and the heart of a craftsman, Masa-san has created a true Texas BBQ experience in Japan, one that food lovers from all over can appreciate.

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